Coffee in Japan

I have always been a tea girl, resenting the bitterness of coffee and taking some pride in snubbing the dark brew. Recently, however, I feel the childish urge to “grow up”. Adults drink coffee. It has this image of a haggard office worker gulping down messy cups throughout the day, or that of the girl smoking her cigarette on a terrace in Europe, the white cup touched by lipstick. There bloomed in me a desire to be perfectly European, incarnating that effortless chic with a few select accessories.

I started to timidly ask my mother for a cup in the morning, and sharing the “coffee break” moments fully with friends. It was an initiation into a circle - there, with my dark bean water drink, I was somehow more part of the group than before.

It’s something à la mode, it makes one fit in with the caffeinated string of daily life. As I sat in Japan, the country of green tea and matcha, I wondered if this was the same feeling that made the Japanese delight in so many cafés and coffee varieties. For my Japanese Subcultures class, I wrote a small paper on the subject:

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Coffee in Japan

24/12/2023

Exploring how the foreign drink captures Japanese hearts, and how its popularity has turned into a unique art form beyond the realm of an afternoon consumption.

European Influence

Coffee was introduced to Japan through Dutch imports just before the beginning of the 20th Century. The strong roasted flavor wasn’t popular to start, but quickly gained influence around the 1930s thanks to Tadao Ueshima who pioneered the drink’s introduction into Japanese market by learning from French cafés. (YourJapan, 2022)

Today, almost all coffee names are French; “café gourmand”, “café au lait”, in contrast to teas being English. Modern カフェ are inspired by an image of a Parisian atmosphere; classy, light-colored, a place to chat and relax for a while. In Japan, the cafés menus have a selection of European dishes and pastries, such as pasta and éclair au chocolat. (YourJapan, 2022)

Adopting the external French image through design and dishes is a habit born from positive cultural exchanges with the country pre-World War II, (Reddit, 2014) after which the image of luxury and class remained, but it was missing the original etiquette of how Europeans approached coffee.  (McInulty, 2023) It was within this space that was born the Japanese 喫茶店 and unique craft of brewing.

Japanese Craft

The Japanese 喫茶店 has a very unique atmosphere from the昭和 period, with dim lighting, leather seats, wooden style, it’s a cozy, small place to unwind. (Motomura, 2022) In Japanese fashion, it’s a moment of nostalgia to be sipped in solitude, cigarette in hand and flipping through magazines or manga. I’d like to think that the ambiance is designed to reflect the body of a strong, black coffee.

I first saw the Japanese fascination with coffee through the anime “Tokyo Ghoul” where the plot revolves around the 喫茶店 「アンティク」, portrayed as a place for the “monsters” of society to relax. Learning how to create the perfect coffee becomes an art central to preserving their human side. (Raith, 2017) Then as I pursue life here in Japan, I see the careful beauty of coffee displayed in shops. In Europe, buying actual beans is a rare task, but here almost every shop has them, with labeled provenance and notes. On social media, people dedicate their entire profiles to coffee ratings and pictures – much like they would for ramen or sushi where skill and quality adds value to the final piece. (Hatake, 2023)

Adopting a western concept and turning it into their own through the emphasis of skill and attention to detail, as shown through their unique brewing techniques. The glass cylinders and cotton filters have more character and a quality of nostalgia (Editors, 2018) than a sleek black automated machine, used with backs turned. 喫茶店員will display their brewing process upfront so that the customer may enjoy the process as much as the taste, similar to the sushi chef, or the 茶道 façon de faire. (Editors, 2018)

When one thinks of coffee in Japan, it may be a little out of place, like the 温泉, but somehow the Japanese see its beauty, and find a creative way to heighten the experience. In Europe, coffee is a pleasure, like an indulgence which gains its aesthetic through appearance and etiquette. In Japan, coffee is more like a secret leisure, where its taste adds to the flavor of life. In a fleeting moment of warmth, intimacy is felt through the quality of creation.

Research Links

Motomura, K. (2022, December 5). What Is a Japanese Kissaten and How Is It Different From a Café? Delishably. https://delishably.com/world-cuisine/How-a-Kissaten-Differs-From-a-Cafe-and-Why-You-Should-Visit-One-When-In-Japan

Reddit. (2014, January 5). When and why did Japan create a deep fascination with French culture—Particularly Paris? [Reddit Post]. R/AskHistorians. www.reddit.com/r/AskHistorians/comments/1ufi5e/when_and_why_did_japan_create_a_deep_fascination/

Raith. (2017, December 1). Tokyo Ghoul: The Power of Coffee. 雲の上. https://atoptheclouds.wordpress.com/2017/12/01/tokyo-ghoul-the-power-of-coffee/

Hatake, S. (2023, September 22). Is “Anteiku” Represent Japanese Coffee Culture? Medium. https://medium.com/@Kopi_Coffee/is-anteiku-represent-japanese-coffee-culture-1f4187c246c1

McInulty, C. (2023, November 5). French Coffee Culture: The History, the Drinks, the Etiquette. Https://Www.Beanpoet.Com/. https://www.beanpoet.com/french-coffee-culture/

Asharita, D. (2022, April 26). A Guide To French Coffee Culture -. https://www.eraofwe.com/coffee-lab/en/articles/a-guide-to-french-coffee-culture

YourJapan, B. (2022, September 12). Coffee culture in Japan. Your Japan. https://itsyourjapan.com/coffee-culture-in-japan/

Editors, C. B. R. (2018, June 2). The Best Japanese Coffee Makers for your Home. Coffee Bean Road. https://coffeebeanroad.com/the-best-japanese-coffee-makers/